Lasers, in plain light.

IPL clears sun spots and redness. In its best trial, it did nothing for wrinkles.From gentle IPL to full resurfacing — matched to your skin tone, your concern, and your downtime budget.

Updated · 24 sections

Lasers and IPL: proven results or expensive light?

What's real: ablative CO₂ and erbium resurfacing gives the deepest wrinkle result short of surgery, lasting years, and IPL, vascular and pigment lasers clear sun spots and visible vessels in a few sessions. What's not: IPL as an "anti-aging" treatment for wrinkles, and a laser "cure" for melasma, which lightens for a while and often comes back. Every laser and light treatment is graded below, strongest first.

The basics

How lasers and IPL actually work

Every device in this guide is a variation on one idea — selective photothermolysis: pick a wavelength and pulse duration absorbed preferentially by one chromophore, so that target heats and is destroyed while surrounding tissue survives. Water is the target for resurfacing lasers (they heat skin itself), melanin for pigment lasers, haemoglobin for vascular lasers. IPL is not a laser at all — a filtered flash-lamp hitting melanin and haemoglobin at once, which is why it treats "colour".

The second big idea, fractional delivery (2004), treats only microscopic columns of skin and leaves bridges of intact tissue between them — turning brutal resurfacing into something that heals in days. Most modern "laser facials" are fractional variants at different depths and aggressiveness.

The downtime ladder — deciding how much result you're buying

Reading laser menus becomes simple once you see the exchange rate:

  • Hours of redness: IPL, vascular lasers, "laser genesis" — colour and glow, no change to established wrinkles.
  • 1–3 days + a week of flaking: non-ablative fractional (Fraxel-class) — texture, fine lines, pigment, over 3–6 sessions.
  • About a week raw: fractional ablative CO₂/erbium — significant wrinkle and scar remodelling in 1–3 sessions.
  • Two weeks of wound care, months of pink: full-field ablative — the deepest result available without surgery, lasting years.

There is no cheat code: every "ablative results with no downtime" claim is selling the middle of the ladder with the top's vocabulary. Decide your downtime budget first, then pick the strongest tool inside it.

Before you book

Darker skin: the safety map

Melanin-targeted platforms cannot tell tan or constitutive pigment from the lesion they're aimed at — which is why IPL and 532 nm KTP are generally avoided in Fitzpatrick V–VI and used cautiously in IV, and why full-field ablative resurfacing (with its ~8% permanent light-spot risk even in fair skin) is off the menu for most darker phototypes.

The safe lane is real, though: a non-ablative fractional laser (1550 nm) produced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after only 4% of sessions in Fitzpatrick IV–VI — none lasting beyond two months — with hydroquinone priming, and long-pulsed/picosecond 1064 nm is the classic dark-skin-safe wavelength. Ask any clinic: "how many patients of my skin type have you treated, and on what settings?" — then ask for a test spot.

Prep, aftercare & the rules that changed

The no-tan rule: melanin-targeted devices treat only untanned skin — four-plus weeks from real sun or self-tanner, with strict SPF before and after everything.

Cold-sore cover: facial resurfacing reactivates herpes in a few per cent of patients without prophylaxis; antiviral tablets from the day before prevented every reactivation in a randomised study of two courses. Routine for ablative work; sensible for anyone with a cold-sore history before fractional treatments.

Isotretinoin: the old "wait 6 months" rule is obsolete — the ASDS consensus found insufficient evidence to delay vascular lasers and non-ablative fractional treatments during or shortly after treatment, and a companion consensus review added fractional ablative lasers. The wait survives only for full-face fully ablative resurfacing.

Who fires the laser: regulation is patchy — parts of the EU restrict Class 4 lasers to physicians; England is only now building a licensing scheme. Practical rule: ablative resurfacing with a dermatologist or equivalent physician; for IPL/vascular/pigment work insist on medical supervision, a named complication pathway, and device transparency.

The full breakdown

Laser & IPL — what the evidence says

Part 01

Resurfacing lasers

Strong evidence

Full-field ablative resurfacing (CO₂ / Er:YAG)

The deepest wrinkle result available without surgery, lasting years — bought with weeks of recovery and an ~8% light-spot risk.

The heavy artillery: the entire outer skin layer is vaporised and the dermis heated, triggering massive collagen remodelling. Three decades of controlled series and a systematic review of split-face trials agree it delivers the largest, most durable wrinkle improvement of any device — with long-term follow-up showing improvement persisting for years. CO₂ resurfaces deeper; erbium heals faster with less tightening.

The price is written in the risk column: 1–2 weeks of open wound care, erythema for up to months, and delayed permanent hypopigmentation in ~8% of a large series. For deep perioral lines and severe photoaging in fair skin, nothing non-surgical matches it; for everyone else, the fractional versions below exist precisely to avoid this trade.

Sessions
1
Downtime
2 wks + months pink
Cost
€2,500–5,000+
Galina and Eli, the sisters who founded EGP Aesthetics

Consultation at a partner clinic

EGP Aesthetics — no clinic in our directory offers this treatment yet. You can talk it through, and the alternatives, in a free consultation. A nurse-led clinic in London, United Kingdom.

Book a free consultation (opens hhgdmw-deagingeur-e5087aa6-doriansternvukotic.wix-site-host.com in a new tab) See all clinics for this guide.

Strong evidence

Fractional ablative (CO₂ / Er:YAG)

The workhorse for real wrinkle and scar remodelling — most of full-field's effect at a fraction of its downtime.

The same ablative wavelengths delivered as microcolumns covering 5–40% of the surface, healing from the intact bridges between. Reviews credit fractional delivery with a better risk-to-benefit ratio than conventional resurfacing — and, with caution, it extends to the chest and hands, where full-field is unsafe (the neck, where its hypertrophic scars were reported, is better left to non-ablative lasers). It doesn't quite match full-field on the deepest lines, and results build over 3–6 months as collagen matures.

In darker skin it's possible with conservative density and priming, but carries meaningfully more pigmentation risk than the non-ablative class.

Sessions
1–3
Downtime
~5–7 days
Cost
€600–2,000/session
Galina and Eli, the sisters who founded EGP Aesthetics

Consultation at a partner clinic

EGP Aesthetics — no clinic in our directory offers this treatment yet. You can talk it through, and the alternatives, in a free consultation. A nurse-led clinic in London, United Kingdom.

Book a free consultation (opens hhgdmw-deagingeur-e5087aa6-doriansternvukotic.wix-site-host.com in a new tab) See all clinics for this guide.

Moderate evidence

Non-ablative fractional (Fraxel-class, 1550/1927 nm)

Texture, fine lines, and pigment over 3–6 sessions with days of downtime — and the preferred fractional class for darker skin.

Heat without vaporisation: microcolumns of coagulated tissue under an intact surface. The 1550 nm wavelength remodels deeper (texture, fine lines, scars); 1927 nm works superficially (pigment, tone, actinic damage). RCTs support periorbital wrinkle improvement — 1550 nm beat focused ultrasound in one randomized trial — and a pooled analysis found small-sample outcomes statistically comparable to ablative, though per-session change is clearly subtler.

Its quiet superpower is safety in Fitzpatrick IV–VI (see the darker-skin section). Expect 25–50% improvement in texture/fine lines across a series, maintained with an annual top-up.

Sessions
3–6
Downtime
1–3 days + flaking
Cost
€500–1,000/session
Galina and Eli, the sisters who founded EGP Aesthetics

Consultation at a partner clinic

EGP Aesthetics — no clinic in our directory offers this treatment yet. You can talk it through, and the alternatives, in a free consultation. A nurse-led clinic in London, United Kingdom.

Book a free consultation (opens hhgdmw-deagingeur-e5087aa6-doriansternvukotic.wix-site-host.com in a new tab) See all clinics for this guide.

Emerging evidence

Hybrid fractional (Halo)

Ablative + non-ablative in one pass — popular, clever, and supported by a single sponsor-linked trial so far.

Halo fires a shallow erbium ablative component and a deeper 1470 nm coagulative one simultaneously — chasing "ablative-like results with non-ablative downtime". The published base is one multi-center manufacturer-linked trial (~80% significantly improved, makeup next day) with no independent comparison against fractional CO₂ or Fraxel. Clinically loved; evidence hasn't caught up with popularity — a classic "emerging".

Sessions
1–3
Downtime
2–5 days
Cost
€900–1,800/session
Galina and Eli, the sisters who founded EGP Aesthetics

Consultation at a partner clinic

EGP Aesthetics — no clinic in our directory offers this treatment yet. You can talk it through, and the alternatives, in a free consultation. A nurse-led clinic in London, United Kingdom.

Book a free consultation (opens hhgdmw-deagingeur-e5087aa6-doriansternvukotic.wix-site-host.com in a new tab) See all clinics for this guide.

Emerging evidence

Low-energy fractional (Clear + Brilliant, Moxi)

"Prejuvenation" lasers — lighter versions of the 1440/1927 nm non-ablative fractional class, with sparse device-specific published outcomes.

The lunchtime tier: low-energy 1440/1927 nm diodes marketed for glow, early pigment, and "prevention". Their plausibility rides on the full-strength non-ablative fractional evidence at lower doses — device-specific peer-reviewed outcomes are thin and mostly uncontrolled: in a 23-patient trial, four to six sessions of the low-energy 1927 nm device gave mild-to-moderate improvement on blinded photo review at three months, and four sessions of the 1440 nm version produced "a mild improvement in select signs of photodamage" (10-patient study in Asian skin). We found no sham-controlled trial in PubMed (searched October 2026). Think "a lighter Fraxel, more sessions, less result per session": pleasant maintenance, honest expectations.

Sessions
4–6, ongoing
Downtime
~1 day
Cost
€250–400/session
Galina and Eli, the sisters who founded EGP Aesthetics

Consultation at a partner clinic

EGP Aesthetics — no clinic in our directory offers this treatment yet. You can talk it through, and the alternatives, in a free consultation. A nurse-led clinic in London, United Kingdom.

Book a free consultation (opens hhgdmw-deagingeur-e5087aa6-doriansternvukotic.wix-site-host.com in a new tab) See all clinics for this guide.

Emerging evidence

Long-pulsed 1064 nm ("laser genesis")

No-downtime glow with small uncontrolled studies and subtle effects — its real niche is being safe in dark skin.

Gentle bulk heating of the dermis with a wavelength melanin barely notices. Small prospective studies report modest wrinkle-grade and laxity improvements after a series of sessions: masked grading of 34 patients after seven or more sessions found coarse wrinkles down about 12% and laxity about 17%, changes the authors called "subtle and gradual" (2003 study). No large, randomised or sham-controlled trial exists. Its genuine value: a polish-and-glow option for Fitzpatrick IV–VI, where most other devices carry pigment risk; one review calls the long-pulse Nd:YAG "the safest laser in darker skin types" (2019 review). As a wrinkle treatment, it's a candle next to the fractional class.

Sessions
7+, repeated
Downtime
None
Cost
€150–350/session
Galina and Eli, the sisters who founded EGP Aesthetics

Consultation at a partner clinic

EGP Aesthetics — no clinic in our directory offers this treatment yet. You can talk it through, and the alternatives, in a free consultation. A nurse-led clinic in London, United Kingdom.

Book a free consultation (opens hhgdmw-deagingeur-e5087aa6-doriansternvukotic.wix-site-host.com in a new tab) See all clinics for this guide.

Part 02

Light, colour & pigment

Strong evidence

IPL for sun spots, redness & tone

The colour eraser: RCT-plus-systematic-review support for lentigines, visible vessels, and mottled tone in 3–6 sessions.

IPL's proven lane is colour. A Danish randomized split-face trial with blinded evaluation found it improved pigmentation, visible vessels, and texture, and a 16-study systematic review (637 patients, average ~4 sessions) supports efficacy across lentigines, redness, and global photoaging scores. Treated spots darken and flake within a week; new sun makes new spots, so maintenance 1–2× a year is the norm.

Skin-tone caveat: melanin is a target — IPL is for lighter phototypes, on untanned skin, with conservative settings toward Fitzpatrick IV and generally not beyond.

Sessions
3–6 + upkeep
Downtime
Hours; spots flake ~1 wk
Cost
€120–400/session
Galina and Eli, the sisters who founded EGP Aesthetics

Consultation at a partner clinic

EGP Aesthetics — no clinic in our directory offers this treatment yet. You can talk it through, and the alternatives, in a free consultation. A nurse-led clinic in London, United Kingdom.

Book a free consultation (opens hhgdmw-deagingeur-e5087aa6-doriansternvukotic.wix-site-host.com in a new tab) See all clinics for this guide.

Strong evidence

Vascular lasers (pulsed-dye, KTP)

The redness specialists: 75–85% telangiectasia clearance in ~3 sessions, meta-analysis-backed for rosacea redness.

Haemoglobin-targeted lasers photocoagulate visible vessels and the vessels behind diffuse redness. A 2024 meta-analysis found pulsed-dye and IPL comparably effective for rosacea erythema, and a split-face trial cleared 85% of discrete vessels with KTP vs 75% with PDL after three sessions. Treated vessels are gone for good; rosacea grows new ones, so expect top-ups every year or two. KTP suits fair skin; PDL stretches cautiously to Fitzpatrick IV.

Sessions
1–4 + upkeep
Downtime
None–mild (purpura opt.)
Cost
€200–500/session
Galina and Eli, the sisters who founded EGP Aesthetics

Consultation at a partner clinic

EGP Aesthetics — no clinic in our directory offers this treatment yet. You can talk it through, and the alternatives, in a free consultation. A nurse-led clinic in London, United Kingdom.

Book a free consultation (opens hhgdmw-deagingeur-e5087aa6-doriansternvukotic.wix-site-host.com in a new tab) See all clinics for this guide.

Strong evidence

Pigment lasers (Q-switched & picosecond) for sun spots

The precision tools: picosecond lasers cleared 68–93% of lentigines across a 41-trial systematic review.

Nanosecond and picosecond pulses shatter melanin photoacoustically — the right tool for discrete sun spots. A 2025 systematic review of 41 trials (3,234 patients) reports clearance of 67.9–93% for picosecond, 36–77% for Q-switched and up to 90% for IPL, with lasers causing less post-treatment pigmentation than cryotherapy. Spots crust and flake for about a week. In darker skin, 1064 nm is the safe wavelength; 532/755 nm are the risky ones.

Sessions
1–2 per spot
Downtime
~1 wk crusting
Cost
€120–350/area
Emerging evidence

Lasers for melasma

Temporary lightening with frequent recurrence — and "laser toning" schedules have caused permanent confetti-white spots.

Melasma is a chronic, hormonally driven pigment disorder — not a sun spot — and lasers are adjuncts at best. Meta-analysis of picosecond treatment shows real short-term MASI reductions (best at 1064 nm) with recurrence in ~7–13% even within short trial windows — and a review of laser and light treatments describes "a high level of recurrence with time". The specific hazard to know: frequent low-fluence "laser toning" has produced permanent confetti-like hypopigmentation.

The backbone of melasma care remains strict photoprotection and topicals ± tranexamic acid, with cautious low-energy laser as a supporting act. Distrust any "laser cure".

Sessions
Adjunct courses
Downtime
Minimal
Cost
€300–600/session
Emerging evidence

At-home laser & IPL devices

The home fractional laser rests on one uncontrolled trial of a similar device (periorbital gains on blinded photos); home IPL's evidence is for hair removal.

Two very different products share the drawer. The Tria-class home fractional laser (1440 nm) rests on one uncontrolled trial of a similar home device: in a multicentre study of 124 self-treating users, blinded photo review found periorbital wrinkles a grade or more better in 90% after the daily phase and 79% after twice-weekly maintenance, with no control group. We found no published trial of the Tria itself (PubMed, October 2026). Home IPL units are hair-removal hardware whose "rejuvenation" modes run at fluences far below clinical photorejuvenation, with essentially no supporting trials — and skin-tone lockouts that exclude darker users by design. A 2022 systematic review of 37 home-device trials recommended home IPL for hair removal only, and in a randomised study of low-fluence IPL redness and pain rose with skin pigmentation as well as with dose.

Think "maintenance toy between clinic visits", and mind your eyes with any of them.

Sessions
Months of use
Downtime
Stinging, mild redness
Cost
€250–600 (device)
Emerging evidence

Same-session combinations (IPL + fractional)

A controlled split-face study showed additive benefit without added downtime — colour first, texture second.

Stacking a colour pass and a texture pass in one visit is evidence-backed, not just upselling: a split-face study found IPL plus non-ablative fractional synergistic with downtime similar to either alone, the combination beating either monotherapy. Sequencing logic: vascular/IPL passes first (so the optical targets aren't disturbed), fractional second; big resurfacing procedures stand alone; melasma gets the least aggressive plan first.

Sessions
Per plan
Downtime
As per strongest part
Cost
Bundled
Galina and Eli, the sisters who founded EGP Aesthetics

Consultation at a partner clinic

EGP Aesthetics — no clinic in our directory offers this treatment yet. You can talk it through, and the alternatives, in a free consultation. A nurse-led clinic in London, United Kingdom.

Book a free consultation (opens hhgdmw-deagingeur-e5087aa6-doriansternvukotic.wix-site-host.com in a new tab) See all clinics for this guide.

Limited evidence

IPL as "anti-aging" (wrinkles, Forever Young claims)

The best RCT found no wrinkle effect, and the "genetically younger skin" story rests on a tiny uncontrolled pilot.

Here the marketing outruns the data. The same blinded RCT that validated IPL for colour found no efficacy on wrinkles. The "Forever Young BBL" narrative — that maintenance sessions keep skin "functionally younger" — extrapolates from a small uncontrolled gene-expression pilot on forearm skin plus retrospective series. Regular IPL keeps tone genuinely fresher; buy it for the colour, not for the collagen story.

Directory

Where to have it done

Clinics that offer the treatments graded above, listed in the order of the evidence, with the clinic's own prices. A consultation first is the right first step for every treatment on this page.

Commercial note: listed clinics are partners and may pay us a referral fee when you book through our links. That has no bearing on how the evidence is graded, and clinics are ordered by the evidence, never by what they pay.

Part 03

Safety

Complications, honestly ranked

Transient redness and PIH are the common ones; scarring and permanent light spots are the rare ones that scale with aggressiveness.

Ranked by how much they should influence your choice:

  • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — the everyday risk, rising with skin tone, sun exposure, and device aggressiveness; usually months-long, usually reversible; minimized by settings, priming, and SPF discipline.
  • Prolonged redness, milia, acne flares — common after resurfacing; annoying, self-limited.
  • Herpes reactivation — a few per cent after facial resurfacing without antivirals; near zero with them.
  • Permanent hypopigmentation — the signature late risk of aggressive full-field ablation (~8% in older series) and of repetitive "laser toning" for melasma.
  • Scarring and burns — rare, and overwhelmingly operator-dependent: wrong settings, tanned skin, wrong device for the skin type. This is what the consultation questions in "Before you book" are for.

Eye safety is absolute: proper shields for every facial treatment, no exceptions around the orbit.

Part 04

Frequently asked questions

Which laser actually removes wrinkles?

Ablative

Full-field or fractional CO₂/erbium resurfacing is the only class with strong evidence for major, years-long wrinkle reduction. Non-ablative fractional freshens texture and fine lines over several sessions; IPL improves colour, not lines. Match the tool to the wrinkle depth — and to your downtime budget.

Is IPL "anti-aging" or just spot removal?

Colour only

Its proven effects are on sun spots, redness, and overall tone — which reads as "younger" in the mirror. The best randomized trial found no wrinkle change, and the gene-expression "Forever Young" story is a pilot-study extrapolation. Buy IPL for colour; buy resurfacing for lines.

I have olive/brown/black skin — what's safe?

1064 + Fraxel-class

Safest: long-pulsed or picosecond 1064 nm, and 1550/1927 nm non-ablative fractional with conservative settings and priming — PIH ran ~4% per session and self-resolved in a careful Fitzpatrick IV–VI series. Risky to avoid: IPL and KTP in V–VI, and full-field ablative beyond type III. Always ask for a test spot and for the provider's experience with your exact skin type.

How long is the downtime really?

Hours to weeks

IPL/vascular: hours of redness, spots flaking a week. Non-ablative fractional: 1–3 swollen pink days plus bronzed flaking. Hybrid: 2–5 days. Fractional ablative: about a week raw, then weeks of pink. Full-field: two weeks of wound care and up to months of erythema. Plan events accordingly — and count the "pink but presentable" phase, not just the raw one.

Can lasers cure my melasma?

No

Lasers can lighten melasma temporarily; recurrence is common, and aggressive weekly "toning" schedules have caused permanent white spotting. The foundation remains fanatical photoprotection plus topicals ± tranexamic acid, with gentle laser as an adjunct. Any clinic promising a permanent laser cure has told you what you need to know about them.

I took isotretinoin — must I wait 6 months?

Mostly no wait

Consensus guidance found insufficient evidence to delay vascular lasers, non-ablative and fractional treatments, or hair removal during or shortly after isotretinoin. The six-month wait survives for full-face fully ablative resurfacing. Discuss timing rather than assuming the old blanket ban.

Interactive

Find your light

Open your main concern to see where the evidence points — each link jumps to the graded section.

Medical review

Reviewed by EGP clinicians

Review in progress

The clinicians at EGP Aesthetics are reviewing this guide. Their names, roles and registration numbers, and the date of their review, will appear here.

References & further reading

All claims cite peer-reviewed studies, systematic reviews, or consensus statements, linked inline within each section. Primary sources: PubMed/PMC, Lasers in Surgery and Medicine, JAMA Dermatology, ASDS consensus documents.

Educational content, not medical advice. Device selection depends on your skin, history, and goals — assess them with a qualified practitioner, and insist on a test spot when skin tone or tan is in play.